Posts Tagged ‘Happy Haven Forge Albania’

Hi Guys!

I  finished skinning the kayak. I have to admit pulling and squeezing the canvas was a good workout for my fingers. 🙂 Of course I made one mistake when sewing the bow and that made sewing the stern more difficult than it should have been. I wound up with two wrinkles on the top that I just couldn’t stretch out. I had a good laugh at myself and I think I worked around it rather nicely. I will say this, I wish I had made a cockpit frame for sewing that section. I now realize that doing so would have made it easier to get and keep the wrinkles out, even with the square opening. I chose to staple the cockpit, mixing the techniques worked, but I think I would have been better off using just one.  Time will tell.

Alternative uses for an anvil and forge. Hahaha,

Alternative uses for an anvil and forge. Hahaha,

Since I used my forge and anvil to skin my kayak does that mean the kayak was forged? 🙂
I forgot to take a picture of the frame after I applied the waterproofer, it has a greenish tint in case you were wondering.
I wet down the skin and let it dry in the sun, since it was about 97 – f or 36/37 – C it would dry faster than I could blow dry it, s on top of my car in the sun. It was bone dry in about an hour. I didn’t see any noticeable shrinkage. Maybe the fabric is already pre-shrunk. Anyway. Next step is to paint it. The only place that I am concerned about is the stern as the seam went a little lower than I would have liked and worry that it will not get fully penetrated with paint and that will cause it to act as a wick. I know, I know people have been doing these for years. The first of anything is always the most fun, I have built two others but not with this type of skin, Soooo…. It is my first, exciting. 🙂
Here’s few pictures of the skinning process. When I am done I will post it and the maiden voyage. You don’t have a kayak until it floats in the water!
Thanks for stopping by!   Vince

The bow running stitch

The bow running stitch

The bow finished

The bow finished

This is how much the canvas stretched about 1-1/4 inches / about 4 cm - towards the stern.

This is how much the canvas stretched about 1-1/4 inches /  4 cm – towards the stern.

Stretching and stitching the stern

Stretching and stitching the stern

Rolling and stitching the stern seam.

Rolling and stitching the stern seam.

Stern with some of the cockpit

Stern with some of the cockpit

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In a time before man became civilized some battles were too costly. Civility had begun to make its way into the minds of the leaders of the clans. In the darkness of a cave resides the old wizard, mystic, master of fire and shaper of iron. He has developed a new tool to develop the strategic thinking. Here one is made,  reminiscent of days of old and yet somehow a reminder that all that was still is.

Hi Guys!
I made this for my friend. The idea came to me, and probably had seen one before, when I was looking at some Medieval stuff for a book that I was, might still do later on. Since my friend lives in Germany it just clicked in my mind. There are some leaps to connect these dots for sure. Hahaha.

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I like to make things with a minimum of tools and this was no different. I don’t have a lot of tools in my shop at this point anyway so sometimes it makes me be work differently than I am still inclined to do so. Ah if only I had a machine…. 🙂

Parts

Miniatures are a bit of a PIA to make. I deviated a little in design and they all fit on a 3.5cm square. The Pawns are 2 different style anvils, one an English style, the other European style. The European style fit on the diagonal as they kept coming out slightly longer. I think I was having too much fun making them and the size was small enough, but easy enough to make, so I just kept making them. Yes I could have filed them down to size and I did clean all the pieces up in a few spots, but I wanted them to be off the anvil as much as possible. Why? It is what I wanted.

Waiting for Rook Bodies to heat up
The Kings are about 12 cm tall, Queens about 11.5 cm, Bishops 11 cm, Knights 10.5, Rooks 8 and the Pawns about 5 cm tall. Pretty much straight forging. I started with the Pawns (anvils), then the King and Queens (hammers) and moved down the line. The Bishops are Tongs as we all know the Francis Whitaker’s quote, “If you cannot hold it, you cannot work it” and so rightly belong in the hierarchy of tools. The knights (files) were originally going to have a punch and chisel with them, but that was a lot to fit on that base so I set the punch and chisel aside. The Rooks were a challenge, what could represent them. Ahh, ha! A Swage Block upon an obelisk would do the trick.

2015-04-15 16.27.36     To dress things up a bit I had originally thought of using copper and steel wire to wrap the King and Queen handles in, but discovered all the solid wire was too large. I had copper wire, what I would call a #12 and even that was a bit large. 14 or 16 gage was what I had in mind, so I did away with the wrap down the handles and used it just around the heads and 3-4 turns under them. I had plenty of steel wire to use, but matched the copper wrapping for some balance between the pieces. I did drill the hole for the Tong Rivet and the Hammer handles. I allowed myself this luxury. Some guy’s voice in the back of my head kept telling me to make it easy on myself. Hahaha. He knows who he is. 🙂

20150425_13310720150425_133313    The box was an afterthought that my wife put there. I was going to have a wooden one made, but she reminded me I could just make one out of wood or metal myself. Yeah, but…. And the next day I looked around, I had some galvanized sheet that I am never going to use, so… a bend here and there later, Viola! I had a small piece of copper sheet and a brass dial holder from a long ago project still in my repousse tool kit that is what is on the top. The belts are new and I just cut and tipped them with the same galv. sheet. It has been a long time since I made a sheet metal box and I made several mistakes, but managed to make is all work. Finish is just wire wheeled and clear coated. I did use a regular rivet gun and then flattened them with a hammer. The metal guys didn’t have any smaller stock and I didn’t feel like making (50) 1/8” rivets out of my ½ round or square bar. Call me lazy. 🙂

There you have it. Oh the best is my friend loved the set, so it is a success. 🙂

DSCN2239Historical Note: No one really knows who invented Chess, but surely it could have been a Blacksmith! 🙂

The long awaited Anvil Repair!!!!! I finally made time to repair the horn side of my anvil. Once again I was unable to find 7018 rod. Soooo…. I used the 6013 that is readily available in all sizes from 2.0mm to 4.0mm, straight from Turkey as there wasn’t any other brand available in recent months. I used about 5- 6kg  on both repairs, so I probably ground off a 1kg (2.2lbs) of that during the welding and finishing stages. So the anvil is about 10 lbs heavier.

Original damage

After cleaning it up for about an hour or so

After cleaning it up for about an hour or so

What she looked like after the 1st round.

What she looked like after the 1st round.

The color in the repair photo is much more intense than what I was looking at, just thought I would mention that.

The 2nd Round of Repair:

A close up of the repair area

Close up of the repair area.  Depth of repair is a little over 1/2 inch and about 6-7 inches long and 3-1/2 inches wide.

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The mighty machine that made it all possible. I didn’t really expect to be doing this kind of repair. Of course now…. like always, wish I had, coulda’ had, why didn’t I, etc.

Not a bad machine, but very limited. works best with 2.5mm.  Has a bit of trouble adjusting the amps for the 1 & 1.5mm. I do miss my Millers and Lincolns.

Anvil still needs a final sanding and polishing. The square in the round hole is to make it useful as a hardy and the standard stock fits into the square so I don’t have to make each hardy tenon by hand. I can always knock that tubing out.

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Side view. I built up this corner more than the rest to add a sharper edge on that side. The other side isn’t as sharp as this edge and the rest of this side serves as a rounded over edge for tighter radii than I can get on the horn.

2015-05-05 11.42.28A top view of the repair

I was able to maintain the original ring to the anvil throughout both repairs. Hardness, hmmm, no idea, not as hard as it should be, even before I repaired it. It seems to me that I retained the extra hardness that I think I acquired after the 1st round of repair to the other end.  Rebound is pretty good the hammer will bounce back a fair ways and if a hard swing I would be wearing a lump on the noggin so, that’s good enough. 🙂 So with a softer face I have to not miss and keep my work hotter.   I happy with the result.

Thanks for stopping by!

I will have another post towards the end of the month. I seem to be having a problem with picture placement in this post for some reason or other. I am sure it is me.

Stay safe!

See ya at the Forge!!!

Vince